Tacos are one of the world’s elemental street foods, but in cities like Toronto, they’ve increasingly moved indoors and become upscale, with a list of globe-spanning fillings and toppings. This new Kensington taqueria, however, keeps things traditional, starting with the handmade tortillas, lightly charred in spots, that cradle fillings like grilled steak or swordfish, braised lamb or classic al pastor pork served with sliced pineapple. There’s a whole salsa bar filled with a rainbow of sauces, from mild to tongue melting. And the best part: it’s just across from the newly renovated Bellevue Square Park, which is prime taco-picnic terrain. $4.50-$5 each.